A trip to Mason Bay - part 1

Mason Bay is on the west coast of Rakiura and consists of extensive and nationally-significant dune systems. Unfortunately marram grass was planted in the 1930s to stabilise the dynamic sand dunes which flowed on to the landholders' marginal farmland. Marram is very dense and crowds out other species including the endemic sedge Desmoschoenus spiralis (orange pīngao) which binds the sand in looser, flatter dunes that provide a unique habitat for other species. By the late 1990s marram had completely covered the foredunes, was steadily moving inland and threatening over 30 threatened and uncommon herbs/plants including the native Gunnera hamiltonii, Pimelea lyallii (sand daphne) and Coprosma acerosa (sand coprosma). In 2000, the Department of Conservation started a marram eradication program, the biggest dune protection project in the southern hemisphere - see here for more information.

Getting to Mason Bay is a breeze if you fly in and land on the beach at low tide; tramping is a tad harder but made easier by getting a water taxi from Oban (rhs red cross on above map) up to Freshwater Hut (middle cross) at high tide, then tramping 15km (3-4hrs) on a relatively flat track. A more strenuous option is to tramp from Oban with an easy tramp to North Arm Hut (4-5hrs), then a toughie over Thompson's Ridge to Freshwater Hut (6-7hrs), then on to Mason Bay (3-4hrs).

Jen and I took the water taxi option and stayed at the historic Island Hill Homestead (lhs cross) so didn't have to take pots/stove/gas which meant our packs were a bit lighter. Tramping is still not my 'thing' - I love being in the bush and taking photos along the way but am usually over the heavy pack novelty after 2-3 hours!! The Homestead is 2.5km from the beach - the Mason Bay DOC hut with 20 beds is halfway, sheltered nicely from the prevailing wind and with large windows overlooking a lawn area which kiwi apparently frequent.

Walking over the swing bridge to check out Freshwater Hut - our
water taxi is just departing

The low-lying track is muddy in places but compensated by the
striking greens and browns of the swamps

Scott Burn - the track (a bit more to the right) follows this fast-flowing
stream and is subject to flooding during wet weather

The historic Island Hill Homestead - our home for two nights

Mason Bay DOC hut

The Spring weather served up sunshine and hail, gales and fantastic cloud formations. Sitting on the deck we could watch the ever-changing clouds scud by, highlighting sand dunes and wetlands as the sun tried valiantly to shine through the gaps. The severity of the elements was apparent in the vegetation - this bush was about 30cm wide, less than a metre tall and shaved on both sides as the howling wind prevented any side growth. Tucked safely deep inside the divaricating branches were wee pink flowers.

Over 1600 sheep were farmed here - I know not how! A tough life for the farmer but I reckon an even tougher one for his wife! More in the next blog!